1. Take a soil test from time to time to adjust P.H. Stay as close to 6.5 P.H. as possible.
2. Every (late winter-3
RD week in March) – about the time that Forsythia (Yellow Bells) blooms: Treat with a Turf Pre-emergent herbicide per manufacturer’s label to prevent germination of crabgrass & crowfoot seeds. Do a 2nd application in June for all year protection. Use the lowest rate on the label.
3. When bermuda greens up in May: apply Fertilizer 27-4-7 (25% slow release nitrogen) at 150#/ac mixed with 150#/ac of pelletized lime. Any similar fertilize will work. Do this same application every 3 weeks or so as long as the bermuda is actively growing, usually through September.
4. If any crabgrass-crowfoot or other grassy weeds get in during the summer-spot treat with MSMA per manufacturer’s label. Usually it takes 2 doses 10 days apart. If any broadleaf weeds get in, treat with 2-4-D per manufacturer’s label I.E. clover-dandelion-etc.
5. Water as needed. Bermuda can stand a lot of drought.
6. Mow often and mow low.
7. Vertical cut bermuda 1 time a year in August to open up thatch for air-water & and nutrients to penetrate to root system.
8. Treat for white grubs in September if present. Dig up a piece of turf to see if present. You will see them about 1⁄2 inch down if present. Treat with milky spores or “sevin” per manufacturer’s label if you have them. If you overseed with Annual Rye (see below) you can treat for grubs, overseed and aerate al at the same time.
General Notes:
Bermuda likes lots of fertilizer – hot weather-lots of low mowing-water if dry. Keep the weeds out, check PH levels and for insects.
If you would like a green field in the winter time.
1 Acre Field Spec. Overseed with Annual Ryegrass in September for Green Grass in winter. Spread 250# Annual Ryegrass seed along with 300# of 27-4-7 ( 25 % slow release nitrogen ) and 300# of Pellet Lime and aerate or spike it all in. Aerate last, not first.